-
Thanks Don, but I'm not sure that AT&T version will works over Bell Mobility in Canada, but with those infos, i'll contact them asking for a newer version. So, finaly, I'll cont to use this OS version with BB Trafic 'til I'll get an ETA.
Update : I tried the AT&T version; It works great on wifi but I get the "unable to reach server" without wifi (over Bell network). So it seems that I need to ask them for a newer version of their GPS Navigator (provided by Bell). They will probably tells me that it will be released with the 7.1.x update in the next months (or years --they are so slow / they're still with the first release of OS7 from last august-- .. pfiew..)
Update 2 : Guess what ? I deleted AT&T Navigator, reboot, re-install GPS Navigator from Bell, reboot, and now it works ! Woot ! Well, it's a downgrade of Telenav, but at least, it works now ! I dunno if something from that AT&T version helped to make the Bell version working now, because I already tried to delete GPS Nav and re-installing it, but I'm glad that it solved my problem anywayLast edited by GumbyQc; 02-19-12 at 02:19 AM.
02-19-12 12:09 AM - Thanks for the confirmation tom. I'm still not getting a gps signal. From my research in these forums I'm assuming the problem is somehow related to the fact that my torch is brand spanking new (i uploaded the leaked os right out of the box last week). Others have experienced the same with new phones. So ill keep an eye on it for changes in the next week or so. Id hate to have to replace it because I'm LOVING MY NEW TORCH
02-19-12 01:03 PM - Yes siiiiiirrrr!!!Do what you do best.....solve it.
Sent from my BlackBerry 9810 using Tapatalk
Alright, now check out the 2 images. Note the dates of these images, then tell me the differences between the 2...
While that's being done, I'll shed some light about our beloved batteries. I come from a ni-cad battery background. In order to keep ni-cads at their performance best a process known as "conditioning" had to be done. Conditioning is basically completely discharging the ni-cad cells individually. How I used to do it was by building a "LED resistor cradle". This device would remove whatever remaining charge that escaped standard device discharge, removing what is known as battery "memory".
Forgive me for being long-winded.
Now! Although our Li-ion battery do not suffer from battery memory, due in part by Li-ions ability to fully discharge...IN the battery circuitry, there is something that holds memory. We know this to be true, because if you buy an aftermarket battery that isn't from the factory, the purchased cell pack has to be "taught" to be recognizable. It's this recognition that is stored where? In memory. So, no matter what OS you upgrade to, if this memory isn't "reset", if you're battery performance was crap on the previous OS, it will still be crap.
Look on my second image...I reset my batteryLast edited by Mecca EL; 02-19-12 at 02:24 PM. Reason: forgot to add images...duh!
02-19-12 02:22 PM - Since there are various ideas flying around here as to how to deal with batteries, how did you do the rest? Should Battery Saver be on or off for the resetting process? And, in my case with two batteries, do I need to reset each separately because the memory is on the battery or is the setting kept in phone memory? Color me "still learning".Yes siiiiiirrrr!!!
Alright, now check out the 2 images. Note the dates of these images, then tell me the differences between the 2...
While that's being done, I'll shed some light about our beloved batteries. I come from a ni-cad battery background. In order to keep ni-cads at their performance best a process known as "conditioning" had to be done. Conditioning is basically completely discharging the ni-cad cells individually. How I used to do it was by building a "LED resistor cradle". This device would remove whatever remaining charge that escaped standard device discharge, removing what is known as battery "memory".
Forgive me for being long-winded.
Now! Although our Li-ion battery do not suffer from battery memory, due in part by Li-ions ability to fully discharge...IN the battery circuitry, there is something that holds memory. We know this to be true, because if you buy an aftermarket battery that isn't from the factory, the purchased cell pack has to be "taught" to be recognizable. It's this recognition that is stored where? In memory. So, no matter what OS you upgrade to, if this memory isn't "reset", if you're battery performance was crap on the previous OS, it will still be crap.
Look on my second image...I reset my battery
02-19-12 02:50 PM - A little more app info: Vlingo was a HUGE battery drainer. I don't need voice activated coolness THAT much. BeWeather was nowhere near as much, but still a lot. With no weather app on the screen, the last hour averaged 2% drain per hour, according to Device Analyzer. But, beyond that, I'm not sure I understand the numbers. The top 5 modules total over 3% of something. I'm beginning to think the other percentages are use for that hour. With about 25 minutes of phone calls, it shows 24.6 %. And with my BT headset connected, but not always in use, for the whole hour, it shows 100% for BT. So, actually the standard seems to be not how much battery, but how much time each is active. And I could be wrong about that02-19-12 02:53 PM
- Now look at the 1st image in this set..Since there are various ideas flying around here as to how to deal with batteries, how did you do the rest? Should Battery Saver be on or off for the resetting process? And, in my case with two batteries, do I need to reset each separately because the memory is on the battery or is the setting kept in phone memory? Color me "still learning".
If you look in the blue high lit region, follow my discharge line, it appears to have dropped below the dreaded 3% threshold - where I've read warnings that ones battery should never drop below that or the battery is rendered useless...this warning is basically not true with my battery because of the recharge line. From full discharge to full recharge, my line never skips a beat.
Full discharge is how I reset my battery. I "forced" my battery to remain active until my phone no longer turned on. From that point, I decided to test another bit of knowledge that I know from my r/c car days...
When I prepped my r/c car for race day, the lap events lasted a total of 3 mins. With my ni-cads, I would quick charge them for a timed 7 mins. This cycle is known as a quick charge/quick dump event. I need the maximum amount of electrons for a full 3 mins worth of work. BUT for practice, I had a separate cell set that I charged for an hour, that gave me roughly 14 mins of electrons.
I said all that to say this: A wall charge has a recharge voltage of roughly 5 volts dc. Let this forever be known in our device lexicon as a fast charge. Wall charge = fast charge/fast dump. In this state, most of us leave our phones "on".
For this test, because my battery dumped and my phone wouldn't turn on, I left it off while recharging on my laptops usb output. This source of electrons has an output of roughly 2.5 volts. HALF of the wall chargers stepdown transformer output voltage. It took maybe 3hrs to recharge at this rate, but once that green "fully charged" light appeared, I disconnected my phone and turned it "on".
Look at the series of images for results...
With my stardard apps running, wifi on, basically the way I've always used my phone. I've neared the 12hr mark at 72% battery reservedLast edited by Mecca EL; 02-19-12 at 03:31 PM. Reason: misspelling due to children distractions
02-19-12 03:24 PM - Damn, my 9800 stayed on the charger in my car(definitely a quick charge), because of the dispute about topping off the charge when really all I needed to do was shut it down and plug into my laptop when charging.Now look at the 1st image in this set..
If you look in the blue lit region, follow my discharge line. it appears to have dropped below the dreaded 3% threshold - where I've read warnings that ones battery should never drop below that or the battery is rendered useless...this warning is basically not true with my battery because of the recharge line. From full discharge to full recharge, my line never skips a beat.
Full discharge is how I reset my battery. I "forced" my battery to remain active until my phone no longer turned on. From that point, I decided to test another bit of knowledge that I know from my r/c car days...
When I prepped my r/c car for race day, the lap events lasted a total of 3 mins. With my ni-cads, I would quick charge them for a timed 7 mins. This cycle is know as a quick charge/quick dump event. I need the maximum amount of electrons for a full 3 mins worth of work. BUT for practice, I had a separate cell set that I charged for an hour, that gave me roughly 14 mins of electrons.
I said all that to say this: A wall charge has a recharge voltage of roughly 5 volts dc. Let this forever be known in our device lexicon as a fast charge. Wall charge = fast charge/fast dump. In this state, most of us leave our phones "on".
For this test, because my battery dumped and my phone wouldn't turn on, I left it of while recharging on my laptops usb output. This source of electrons has an output of roughly 2.5 volts. HALF of the wall chargers stepdown transformer output voltage. It took maybe 3hrs to recharge at this rate, but once that green "fully charged" light appeared, I disconnected my phone and turned it "on".
Look at the series of images for results...
With my stardard apps running, wifi on, basically the way I've always used my phone. I've neared the 12hr mark at 72% battery reserved02-19-12 03:34 PM - The USB cord is mini instead of micro. That's going to work well for me. I also have a Motorola rechargeable battery "egg" (my name for it) that's an external power source if the phone goes dead -- has an adaptor to go from the "egg's" mini to a micro input.OH man, that's awesome!!
Thanks so much for the link.
Between my 9800 and my 9810, I have 4 batteries.
Sweetness and light!!02-19-12 05:29 PM - A little more app info: Vlingo was a HUGE battery drainer. I don't need voice activated coolness THAT much. BeWeather was nowhere near as much, but still a lot. With no weather app on the screen, the last hour averaged 2% drain per hour, according to Device Analyzer. But, beyond that, I'm not sure I understand the numbers. The top 5 modules total over 3% of something. I'm beginning to think the other percentages are use for that hour. With about 25 minutes of phone calls, it shows 24.6 %. And with my BT headset connected, but not always in use, for the whole hour, it shows 100% for BT. So, actually the standard seems to be not how much battery, but how much time each is active. And I could be wrong about that
Yes all % (exept the battery drain and charge rates) indicate the % of time opened or activated.02-19-12 07:44 PM - Now look at the 1st image in this set..
If you look in the blue high lit region, follow my discharge line, it appears to have dropped below the dreaded 3% threshold - where I've read warnings that ones battery should never drop below that or the battery is rendered useless...this warning is basically not true with my battery because of the recharge line. From full discharge to full recharge, my line never skips a beat.
Full discharge is how I reset my battery. I "forced" my battery to remain active until my phone no longer turned on. From that point, I decided to test another bit of knowledge that I know from my r/c car days...
When I prepped my r/c car for race day, the lap events lasted a total of 3 mins. With my ni-cads, I would quick charge them for a timed 7 mins. This cycle is known as a quick charge/quick dump event. I need the maximum amount of electrons for a full 3 mins worth of work. BUT for practice, I had a separate cell set that I charged for an hour, that gave me roughly 14 mins of electrons.
I said all that to say this: A wall charge has a recharge voltage of roughly 5 volts dc. Let this forever be known in our device lexicon as a fast charge. Wall charge = fast charge/fast dump. In this state, most of us leave our phones "on".
For this test, because my battery dumped and my phone wouldn't turn on, I left it off while recharging on my laptops usb output. This source of electrons has an output of roughly 2.5 volts. HALF of the wall chargers stepdown transformer output voltage. It took maybe 3hrs to recharge at this rate, but once that green "fully charged" light appeared, I disconnected my phone and turned it "on".
Look at the series of images for results...
With my stardard apps running, wifi on, basically the way I've always used my phone. I've neared the 12hr mark at 72% battery reserved
when my phone is completely discharged and i connect it to my wall socket, my phone powers on automatically after 10-15minutes
plus, there is no green light, there is only a battery icon in the middle of the screen
Last edited by rgshah3; 02-20-12 at 04:28 AM.
02-19-12 11:56 PM - First, Mecca's suggesting that charging off the lower voltage of a PC USB slot is going to work better for battery life than charging directly from A/C.when my phone is completely discharged and i connect it to my wall socket, my phone powers on automatically after around 10-15 minutes
Second, I think he's saying that he waits till the point where the phone shuts all the radios down. But I'm suspecting he fully shuts off the phone manually, then, after full charge, turns it all back on. If I'm wrong on that, Mecca will clarify, I'm sure.
Hope that helps.02-20-12 03:05 AM - In an earlier post, Mecca stated that his phone won't turn on.
But my phone powers on automatically after it has been discharged completely and has been kept for charging for about 15-20 minutes.
there is just a battery icon
but i got a green light while charging when my phone went off giving a notification, ' battery drained. shutting down handheld' but i don't think that will be something like a memory reset in this.
Last edited by rgshah3; 02-20-12 at 04:34 AM.
02-20-12 03:28 AM
