- CrackBerry User
02-07-13, 10:30 AM #28
- 22 Posts
- 02-07-13, 10:31 AM #29
Amazing fix for Z10 low light pictures
Again, for someone that's never used a camera phone with touchscreen focus, this is a helpful guide.
But it's not improving low-light performance and it's not something that you can just "patch up".
When you change the focus point to something darker or lighter, you're adjusting the exposure of the image. It happens with any auto-exposure camera.
Take a look at these (terrible) photos from a lowly 2+ year old iPod. If the focal point is on the lighter area, the dark areas are dreadfully underexposed. If you focus on the dark areas, the light areas are extremely over exposed.
There are even apps available (including Blackberry apps) that actually allow you to adjust focus separately from exposure, resulting in some really neat images.
The reason this isn't going to fix low light performance is because in low light, you don't have all the spare light in the above images to actually illuminate whatever you're trying to take a picture of.
So the camera needs to crank up the ISO, resulting in a brighter but noisier image.
Last edited by mikeo007; 02-07-13 at 11:34 AM.
- CrackBerry User
02-07-13, 10:35 AM #30
- 72 Posts
This appears to be similar to the spot metering that used to feature in some early 35mm SLR cameras. You would direct the focus of the camera to an area in the frame which represented the main interest for setting an exposure, then set the indicator to that exposure, then re-compose the frame and shoot with the preset exposure. For films with a narrow exposure range, this was critical to getting satisfactory results in high contrast lighting situations. It's comforting to see that this workaround is available with the Z10 pending possible corrective software updates. And thanks, OP, for bringing this to our attention.
- 02-07-13, 10:48 AM #31
I'll be honest, the pix that are being considered "fixed" above are actually "blown out" or over exposed. (check the histograms on those images, you'll see)
The dynamic range in these images would be difficult for a high end DSLR with no flash.
What you're doing is called spot metering, and no camera has the ability to properly expose the above seen ranges of lighting with spot metering.
If you want these pix to look right, use the flash, its there for a reason. The white walls/shades will be properly exposed, and the shadows should be "backfilled" by the flash.
This is the proper way to shoot these shots. Expecting properly exposed images from the above conditions without any flash, with a phone camera (or DSLR) is expecting way too much.
- 02-07-13, 11:06 AM #36
Oops, sorry, I thought I was responding to Mike007, my bad!
- 02-07-13, 11:11 AM #40
Well, that's the point of my post. From a photographic standpoint, the pictures are worse due to the overexposure portions of the images.
This is not a flaming, but it just doesn't make sense to call it a fix, when technically its made worse.
Take Post #1
The correct image is the one that you can see the plant in the upper left porting, and its clearly defined from the white wall. The other image, the wall is blown out, and the plant fades into the over exposed area. That's just wrong.
This is borderline, could go either way. I would really want to see the histogram. (the true correct way to photograph something like that is with a whitebox)
Just should never have been taken without a flash. The one considered "fixed" loses the definition of each vertical blind. When they blend into a white glow, its just wrong. No camera in the world could take the picture correctly exposed without a flash.
Even the average non-photographer should be provided with accurate guidance.
- 02-07-13, 11:30 AM #42
I even stated that you've provided a helpful guide.
The only issue I'm addressing is that you're being disingenuous by stating that this is a fix for low light photos. You're showing non low-light photos, over exposing them, and somehow inferring that this will fix low light photos.
- 02-07-13, 11:40 AM #44
Low light to me would be something dimly illuminated with only artificial light, like a church or hall.
Or a bedroom or den illuminated by lamps.
But in the end, it doesn't really matter what your definition of low light is.
In your above examples, the Z10 did not struggle with the lighting conditions at all even before you adjusted the exposure. So the light wasn't low enough to present a problem in the first place.
- 02-07-13, 11:55 AM #46
Judging by the photos before the exposure adjustment, there is more than enough light for a good photo. Again, the conditions that you are presenting are not the conditions where the Z10 struggles. Please don't use the "autoflash" as a way of judging room brightness either...
- 02-07-13, 12:04 PM #47
A real "Low Light" condition would be a night club/bar type scene.
A flash shouldn't always be thought of a used for illuminating a subject. It also "backfills", which is to mean in fills in shadowed areas, usually closest to the camera.
An idea use for this would be outdoors, bright sunny day, (yes, we're going to use a flash at high noon) with the sun high in the sky. While your eyes may not notice, your nose and other facial features will cast shadows on your face. Backfilling this with the cameras flash will result in an image without the shadows. Because a shadow is much more defined and obvious in a picture than in real life.
The flash is a useful tool, don't dismiss its need as simply for "use it in a dark room" scenario.
All those pictures you took would have benefited from a flash.
- 02-07-13, 12:06 PM #48
Mike is right. This is just telling the camera where to take the exposure reading from. Still, it is a great tip, and a good way for people to understand how the camera works. For a low light test, just make sure the light is consistent throughout the frame - this will give you a better idea of how the Z10 exposes, focuses, and handles high iso (and resulting noise) in dim light.
I am curious how the "remove noise" feature works. Perhaps someone can comment on that.
- CrackBerry Abuser
02-07-13, 12:12 PM #50
- 341 Posts
i do this all the time with my iphone4s.
this should be posted on the front page so people learn how to take pictures with their cell phones the PROPER way under lowlight.
however, this only works when there is a source of light. if the entire picture has equal darkness, then there will be no change in quality.
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