[Max_Powers]

I have seen many posts about the possible replacement of the front bezel. I happen to have a torch with a wrecked screen that I am replacing, and I figured I'd post a little how to while I'm at it.

NOTE: This process is EXTREMELY DIFFICULT and should NOT be attempted if you have even the slightest bit of doubt. Removing the screen without destroying it is nearly impossible. I take no responsibility for any damage if you attempt this. My screen was wrecked already, so I had nothing to lose. Most pics are of spare parts to show the completely torn down parts for reference.

Step1: Disassemble the main body of the torch (youtube it, those instructions are everywhere). After the body is apart, remove the 6 torx screws in the picture below with a t3 driver, and carefully remove the front of the Torch.



Once the screen section is removed, look on the back for the microscopic torx screws(holes shown in pics), grab the T2 you don't have, and go ahead and take off those screws as well. The bottom plastic shroud should pop right off after they are removed.



After those screws are removed, and you popped off the connectors that I forgot to mention in the last step (lines to each plug and socket in pic), pry carefully from the TOP down. There is adhesive on the slider holding it to the screen. Feed the ribbon cables through the slots and set aside.



After that, flip over the screen and grab your case opener tool and a hairdryer. Apply heat to the BACK of the casing until you can barely hold it, and start CAREFULLY prying off the digitizer. Work your way from the top of the screen down. Apply heat every 2 minutes or so, or you can expect a nice shatter when you work towards the bottom. Lift up, disconnect ribbon cable, and set aside.





Now we have the screen. I'll be totally blunt here. you'll never get it off without smashing it. The entire back is covered in adhesive that could hold the space shuttle down. If your screen is smashed already, get your case removal tool in there and pull like crazy, if it's not smashed, I recommend you go no further. This would be a good time to mask off and paint the bezel if desired.





The next few pictures show the buttons being peeled off (heat em up of lose the foam, and you'll need new ones), the underlying button electronics that are stuck down with the same glue that the screen was held on with, and the top speaker and status light. all will have to be CAREFULLY removed if you are replacing the bezel.








Thats it. Its apart. Now do everything in reverse and Humpty Dumpty is back together again. I hope this helps some people out. I know bezels are cheap, but without a new screen at the VERY LEAST, its a waste of money. Try and find an assembled bezel/screen/slider assembly and save yourself the tears.


Max

[Max_Powers]

I'll also add, that if you were as frustrated with the whole process by the end as I was.... you'll probably just do this...




...And buy a shiny new one...




Max

[gdanonym]

Nice to see the hardware from the inside out.
What mechanism is used for connection between the display end and the body end?

[Max_Powers]

Nice to see the hardware from the inside out.
What mechanism is used for connection between the display end and the body end?

6 torx screws hold the display onto the body. Its a solid connection. The display panel is metal, and the body panel has another metal overlay that the torx screw through. Any wobble in the slider is not between the body and screen, but rather in the actual slider device itself.

Max

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[yogi]

Thanks for all the informations.

[homer1475]

Been there, done this, got the t-shirt, twice, and never want to do it again.

Fried torch(actually went into a deep fat fryer), pizza sauced torch, dropped torch. You name it I've done it and tore it apart 4 times to fix. I can tell you with 100% honesty this is not easy and not for the faint of heart, and requires 3 specific torx screwdrivers that are a bit*h to find.

[Max_Powers]

Been there, done this, got the t-shirt, twice, and never want to do it again.

Fried torch(actually went into a deep fat fryer), pizza sauced torch, dropped torch. You name it I've done it and tore it apart 4 times to fix. I can tell you with 100% honesty this is not easy and not for the faint of heart, and requires 3 specific torx screwdrivers that are a bit*h to find.

I'll never do it again. Ever. And I agree with you 110% that its not for the faint of heart. Its the most complex built phone I have ever torn down and put back together.

I might also add that your T2 drivers strip just by looking at them the wrong way, so use care in removing the screws from the back of the screen.

Max

[gdanonym]

I'm sorry, i didn't mean de mechanical connection but the electrical connection. How does the screen (or keyboard) get its data from the processor (main board). Is this a little ribbon cable or is it wireless with a little sender and receiver method?

Posted from my CrackBerry at wapforums.crackberry.com

[Max_Powers]

I'm sorry, i didn't mean de mechanical connection but the electrical connection. How does the screen (or keyboard) get its data from the processor (main board). Is this a little ribbon cable or is it wireless with a little sender and receiver method?

Posted from my CrackBerry at wapforums.crackberry.com

A ribbon cable slides through a slot in the body and connects to the main board.

Max

Posted from my CrackBerry at wapforums.crackberry.com

[Max_Powers]

Bit of an update and some new important information.

There are no less than 3 different variations of the screen unit. None are compatible with eachother. If you look at the pictures of the back of my slider, you will see a "001". Those three numbers are the key build numbers that you need to reference when ordering parts, or you'll probably end up with a brick.

For example, the Mexico-4 Rogers Torch screen assembly will not work in my Mexico-4 Telus Torch - The rogers being a 2##(I can't remember the last two numbers), and the Telus in my case being a 001. Seems odd, yes, but I saw the result when a non-compatible screen assembly was plugged into the boards... that result was a white screen and a solid red status light. They just dont jive with the main boards if you try and mix and match.


Max

[watermon12]

Awesome post! Looks a bit more difficult than changing the timing chain on my Honda Civic after 90K miles

[Jeovex]

Bit of an update and some new important information.

There are no less than 3 different variations of the screen unit. None are compatible with eachother. If you look at the pictures of the back of my slider, you will see a "001". Those three numbers are the key build numbers that you need to reference when ordering parts, or you'll probably end up with a brick.

For example, the Mexico-4 Rogers Torch screen assembly will not work in my Mexico-4 Telus Torch - The rogers being a 2##(I can't remember the last two numbers), and the Telus in my case being a 001. Seems odd, yes, but I saw the result when a non-compatible screen assembly was plugged into the boards... that result was a white screen and a solid red status light. They just dont jive with the main boards if you try and mix and match.


Max

I need clarification on where the number for the build on the digitizer is. I found that I have build 001 phone so i need to know which digitizer to get as the one i got to replace my shattered one is not working and leads to the "bricking", also by removing the original digitizer now no longer works.

Please if anyones knows info on it please let me know.